Your Naples Travel Guide: 3-Day Itinerary

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Naples is gritty, chaotic, and not like the rest of Italy. Come in with the right expectations and enjoy a city that's uniquely and deliciously it's own.

Naples is gritty. It's chaotic. And charming in all the wrong ways. If you visit Naples thinking that the city will be akin to Rome, Florence, or even Milan, you'll likely be disappointed. You won't find the laid back attitude most of Italy offers, the clean streets, or the beautiful corners that look straight out of a painting (except in one neighborhood but more on that later!).

Nope. Instead you'll find graffiti, motos buzzing past, laundry hanging in every sliver of sunlight, and people speaking in decibels more akin to shouting.

It's fantastic; but not in the same way the rest of Italy is fantastic. I don't think of Naples as a place to come and see the "main attractions," I see it as a place to wander and ditch your diet.

Naples is completely it's own and if you ask me, well worth a visit. It's just important you know what you're getting yourself into. Raf is from Bogota and Naples reminds both of us far more of cities in South America than other places we've visited in Europe.

It's lively, loud, and absolutely delicious.

But don't worry, there are calmer neighborhoods and island day trips that give you the chance to practice la dolce far niente, just don't expect to find that the moment you step outside of the main train station.

After spending about 2 weeks in the city (from 2 trips combined), here's how I would suggest you spend 3-days in Naples.

Short on time? Here's the quick guide:

Naples isn't like the rest of Italy: it's gritty, chaotic, but absolutely delicious. Go in with an open mind, instead of comparing it to the expectation of Italian cities, and you'll be in for a treat.

No Time?

My #1 recommendation is to take yourself on a self-guided food + walking tour, trying all the best street food along the way.

Prefer a guided tour? GetYourGuide and Viator have plenty of options to choose from.

Where to Stay

There are a lot of different areas in the city to choose from. To be centrally located, go with La Casa Sul Nilo in the historic center. To stay in the "nicest" area of Naples, head to Vista Piazza dei Martiri in Chiaia.

How to Get Here

You can arrive by plane, train, and even ferry. Just know the airport isn't connected by train to the city center. From the main train station, you can take the metro nearly anywhere you want to go. Just know that the area right at the station is NOT the best of Naples.

Just in Case

I recommend having travel medical insurance while here in Italy. While I'm sure you won't need it, it's better to be safe! From my experience, I recommend SafetyWing. They offer 2 levels of coverage based on your needs and the length of your trip. Nomad Essential is best for travelers and Nomad Complete is more robust and ideal for digital nomads and expats.

Day 1: Arriving to Naples

Naples is home to a large international airport

Getting to Naples itself isn't too hard but getting into the city center can be.

Naples International Airport is big and a common place to land from abroad. The airport itself is just outside the city and isn't connected by train.

If you're skipping over Naples all together and are just using this as a hub to explore the surrounding area, you might prefer to rent a car right from the airport. If you're trying to get into the city center though, you have some better options:

A taxi
The bus
A shared taxi

The shared taxi, or taxi collettivo, is by far the best option you have here. Unless you land at a strange time, the line for a private taxi or the bus gets ridiculously long. Skip the wait and follow signs to the "collettivo." Here, the ride to the city center is always €6/person. The only caveat is you can only get to the central train station. From here, you'll have to either get another taxi, the metro, or walk to your hotel.

Still, I certainly think it's the fastest and cheapest option if the lines for the bus and private taxi are looking as long as I've seen them.

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Where to Stay

The city itself is pretty big and spread out so you have some options when deciding where to stay.

Centro Storico

Centro Storico is Naples historic center, or old town. Centro Storico is located right in the center, making it a convenient place to stay. That said, it is the most touristic area to stay in. While it's not necessarily my favorite area, I will recommend a stop or two here in your self-guided food and walking tour tomorrow.

For those that enjoy artisan shops or are looking to grab some souvenirs before heading home, this area hosts the majority of shops like that.

If you'd rather enjoy convenience and being central to the biggest sites, I'd consider booking a stay at:

Budget Option: Terrazza Duomo: The real treat of this property is the covered terrace that offers views and a bit of respite from the craziness of Naples.
Mid-Tier Option: La Casa Sul Nilo: If you're looking for more classic furniture and decorations, you'll feel as though you stepped back in time to the Renaissance here.
Luxury Option: Santa Chiara Boutique Hotel: Enjoy a variety of room types to choose from, right in the historic center. You'll be walking distance to almost anything in Naples from here.

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Off of Via Toledo

Gallerie d'Italia, a stunning indoor shopping center, on Via Toledo

Via Toledo is the main walking and eating street in Naples. It's overflowing with street food and somewhere I highly recommend you visit to be able to try a lot of different foods in one area. That said, it's chaos. It's really crowded day and night.

While it is the biggest shopping street, know that most shops on Via Toledo are chains and not locally owned boutiques like you can find in other areas.

Regardless, the area around here is good for those that have limited time in Naples and are more interested in trying the most food possible. Via Toledo also has a major metro station, allowing you to get around easily.

It's also the starting point to the famed Spanish Quarter, or Quartieri Spagnoli. This area is the most stereotypical part of Naples, where you'll only find small alleyways, plenty of motorcycles, laundry taking up every corner, and people shouting from window to window. It's honestly pretty fun.

To stay around Via Toledo or in the Spanish Quarter, I recommend:

Budget Option: Leone House: For those that want to stay in the heart of the Spanish Quarter, you'll be hard pressed to beat this price.
Mid-Tier Option: Toledo Relais Suites: This hotel is right on Via Toledo, so all the food will literally be steps away. Just know that Via Toledo is pedestrian traffic only so a taxi would only be able to get you to the corner, not right to the door.
Luxury Option: Lumina Apartment: This is where we stayed on our last trip to Naples. I want to be clear, I'm not recommending it for the exact area (although it's just a few blocks from Via Toledo and from the port if you plan to take a ferry) but more because the apartment is spacious, has a good size table, and has great natural light if you need to work online like we did.

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Around Corso Vittorio Emanuele

I frustratingly didn't take any horizontal pictures when we previously stayed here. The pin saved at the bottom of the article gives you a glimpse of the view though.

This is a street located "above" the city. Although a lot of the city center in Naples is flat, the Spanish Quarter is a big hill leading up to Corso Vittoria Emanuele (the name of a street). If you're a sucker for a view, you'll love it up here.

During our first visit to Naples, we stayed at an apartment on this street and loved it. It was quiet, relaxed, and gave us an incredible view of Mount Vesuvius. The walk down to the city center through the Spanish Quarter was always fun but the walk up could be strenuous, especially on the hottest of days.

Luckily, there are a number of inclined railway stations that'll take you up and down the hill at regular intervals if the walk sounds worrisome.

To take in the views and pockets of quiet, consider booking your stay around Corso Vittoria Emanuele at:

Budget Option: White House: Actually located in the northern bit of Spanish Quarter, you're just a block from the Vittorio Emanuele. Don't worry though, this high up in the neighborhood, you can still enjoy good views, they're just less panoramic and more between the buildings.
Mid-Tier Option: San Francesco al Monte: This hotel is actually in a restored 16th-century monastery. As far as unique places to stay go, without sacrificing any view, this is a great choice.
Luxury Option: Grand Hotel Parker's: This hotel is on the other end of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, just above Chiaia, the neighborhood next up on the list. If that neighborhood + views interest you, I'd highly recommend a stay here if it's in your budget.

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Chiaia

Chiaia is the fanciest neighborhood in Naples, at least from what I've seen. This area feels more like the rest of Italy than the other parts of the city. Here you'll find cobblestone streets, small boutiques and luxury stores, and a labyrinth of well-maintained alleyways to traverse.

If you want the gritty side of Naples, don't stay here. But if you want to avoid that, this is your best bet.

Other than the trendy neighborhood to explore, Chiaia has a large park stretching along the coast and a small beach to enjoy in the summer. The views from this side of the city are really nice as well on a clear day.

To enjoy a different side of Naples, away from the grit and chaos of much of the city, here are some options of where to stay in Chiaia:

Budget Option: Cavallerizza home: While the rental itself isn't anything spectacular, the location certainly is. You're in the best part of Chiaia but still an easy walk towards Via Toledo from here.
Mid-Tier Option: Vista Piazza dei Martiri: For a nicer sleeping space, this hotel is just a few blocks from the one previously mentioned and right near tree-lined Via Chiaia.
Luxury Option: Agra Suites: Get the best of Naples by booking at this luxury hotel, in this luxury neighborhood. For those that want the "pretty" side of Naples, this is your spot.

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Where Not to Stay

Unless you're just here for one night and are arriving and departing from the main train station (Napoli Centrale), I would not recommend that area. It's gritty and not in a cool way. Countless foreigners have talked about how much they dislike Naples but after questioning them a bit more, it was obvious they only spent time here. Don't be like them and instead branch out a bit.

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Savor a True Neapolitan Pizza

Go for a classic Margherita for the best pizza experience

Alright, now that you're checked in and have likely taken a little look around the area you're staying in, it's time to dive into Naples in the best way possible: by eating your first real pizza.

I've hardly met a pizza I didn't like, from New York to South Korea, but man, the pizza in Italy is different. And the pizza in Naples is a step above the rest.

I'm not sure if it's partially mental on my end but I do believe the tomatoes are sweeter, the crust the perfect texture, and the cheese the right balance on top. Just like pizza places all around the world, you can get a number of ingredients on yours (just never chicken or pineapple!) but I honestly believe a classic pizza Margherita is the best in Naples.

Don't give in to the temptation to cover it in toppings (I'm a topping girlie so I completely understand) but the simpler the better here. Also a tip you can apply to any food in Italy, by the way. Get at least one Margherita for your group.

Just word to the wise, pizzas are considered personal in Italy and it's rare to order one to share. They also won't come sliced but you'll need to do that yourself. To cut it like a real Italian, start in the center and cut one slice at a time.

Now, here's where I may piss you off. I'm not going to tell you where to get the "best" pizza in Naples. I've eaten probably 10 and all 10 were delish. Ask your hotel for a recommendation nearby or just follow your nose. There's never a pizza joint far away in Naples but I would avoid going to ones with long lines made famous by social media. Or ones that show pictures.

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Day 2: Food + Walking Tour

Freshly baked taralli are one of my favorite treats in Naples

Today, I recommend you take yourself on a little walking (and eating) tour of the city. Although we all know and love Naples for their pizza, there's a lot more dishes to try than just that one.

Italian food in Italy is actually lighter and healthier than we're used to when eating "Italian" abroad but Naples is the real exception to this. Here, they love to fry up just about anything they can get their hands on. As an American, I can respect the urge to deep fry things.

Since the food is heavy and there's a lot to try, I recommend you make today a walking + food tour so you can burn those calories to make room for the next best dish.

I'll share below how you can take yourself on a self-guided one but if you prefer a guide, know that GetYourGuide and Viator have plenty of options.

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Self-Guided Food Tour Itinerary

A *frittatina* on Via Toledo is my #1 pick for street food in Naples (and trust me, the competition is stiff)

This tour will take you through a few different parts of the city on foot. Here are the main stops I suggest you try:

Start your walk off with a sfogliatella frolla and a cappuccino. You can head to any bar or caffe near your hotel for this. While Naples has a number of pastries to choose from, my personal favorite is sfogliatella frolla. This is a dense, shortbread-esque bite.
From breakfast, make your way to Via Toledo. If coming from Chiaia, get there by walking Via Chiaia, a tree-lined street that turns into a picturesque colorful road as you get closer to Via Toledo. From Vittorio Emanuelue, skip the railway and walk down through the Spanish Quarter, making a pit stop at the Maradona shrine on the way. If coming from Centro Storico, know that we will circle back to Via San Biagio Dei Librai later on so I'd suggest walking down a different street to get here.
Once you arrive to Via Toledo, it's time to feast. I'll let you choose the order in which you try my favorite treats but I highly recommend you try them all. As you walk down this street, from either direction, you'll have plenty of food stands to choose from so don't stress over doing things in a certain order. Just be sure to try graffe (a fresh, sugary donut), montanara (like a mini fried Margherita pizza), pizza fritta (the actual equivalent to fried pizza but is really more like a fried calzone), cuoppo fritta (means "fried cup" but is a paper cone full of fried veggies and seafood), and my personal favorite, frittatina di pasta (this is essentially a fried ball of pasta, it's heaven!).
Top it off with a gelato or artisanal chocolates at Gay Odin. There are a few locations around Naples so you'll find one on both sides of Via Toledo and the areas nearby. This is a premium spot for unique chocolates and interesting gelato choices. It's not cheap but it is the highest quality.
Now time for an aperitivo with taralli. Taralli is like a cracker or crunchy bread stick. They're found packaged all over Italy but in Naples you can go to bars that specialize in making them fresh and in a variety of flavors, both savory and sweet. To visit my favorite option, I recommend heading to Old Town to Taralleria Napoletana. Their cheese one is my top choice, paired with a Prosecco. But, do yourself a favor and try a few.
Finish it off with another pizza. When in Naples, right? Although I didn't recommend a stop yesterday, since you're close by, La Figlia del Presidente is a close option. Again, go classic Margherita for the best!

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Day 3: Set Off on a Day Trip

I've moved these day trip ideas to the 3rd day because honestly, while most are just an hour or less away from the city center, you might want to spend a night or 2 at one of these destinations instead of just the day.

Although Naples itself is pretty chaotic, once you leave the city itself you'll find calmer and more picturesque scenery. Lucky, you have quite a few day trips from Naples to choose from.

If you'd rather stay in Naples itself for the day, know that there are a handful of castles, museums, and other areas, like Vomero, to visit. For the men reading this, know that Naples has really great men's clothing stores, in our humble opinions. It feels like locally owned men's shops are at every corner.

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Procida

Procida is the closest of the islands that sit in the Bay of Naples. It's a 40 minute direct ferry ride from Naples' Molo Beverello.

There are 2 main reasons I'd suggest you visit Procida:

To eat a lingua di Procida: This is a lemony pastry you can only find on this island. I'd honestly go here simply to eat another one of these.
To take in the views at Panoramica Sulla Corricella: This is the best viewpoint for a panoramic view of the colorful fishing village.

Of course, walking around the village and eating fresh seafood are bonus pulls but other islands also offer that. The 2 items listed above are what makes Procida truly unique.

Read more details for your day trip to Procida.

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Ischia

Ischia is another island in the Bay of Naples, just past Procida. Although you might be tempted, I would not recommend visiting both islands in a single day trip.

Ischia is much bigger than Procida so to really make the most of your day trip, I suggest you pick one town on the island and just explore that part. You can choose between Ischia Port, Ischia Ponte, Forio, or Sant'Angelo. Forio and Ischia Port have main ports so those are the best options for direct ferries to and from Naples.

If visiting in the summer, I'd suggest trying to hop on a boat tour that goes around the island. We did this one and really loved it.

If visiting in not-so-warm weather, fear not! Ischia is famous for their natural hot springs so it's actually the perfect winter getaway as well.

While you can squeeze Ischia into a day trip, I do recommend you spend more time here. Here's how I suggest you spend a 3-day trip to Ischia.

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Capri

Capri is the 3rd island in the Bay of Naples and by far the most famous. It's only a 50 minute direct ferry to get there.

Full disclosure: we've never been to Capri and while the landscape does look stunning, I'm not too motivated to visit. Friends and family that have been here say it's more expensive than most other parts of Italy and also can get really crowded thanks to its fame.

If you have to go, go, but if you're open to other ideas I suggest Ischia or Procida instead.

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Amalfi Coast

Travel opinions aside, we can all agree it's as

The Amalfi Coast rivals Capri with its fame. I know you've heard tons about it and it's quite possibly the reason you have time in Naples to begin with. The drive from Naples is about 1-1.5 hours. You can arrive in Sorrento though by train or ferry.

Another moment for full disclosure: Raf and I have been to the Amalfi Coast once. We went on this day trip tour mainly to scratch the itch of our curiosity. It's not high on our list to return back to. The day trip itself was great for those that have no time to spare but if you do...

I'd suggest you give yourself more time to avoid the rush. I'd also stay somewhere just outside the zone, like Sorrento or Salerno, or towns less famed like Ravello, Praiano, or Maiori. Positano and Amalfi are absolutely stunning but are too crowded for their small alleyways.

If you have the budget, I do think a boat ride along the coast would be fantastic. The scenery here really is as good as you're imagining, it's just the overtourism that is killing the actual experience on land.

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Caserta

I had never heard of Caserta until a month ago when we were invited to a wedding in Casertavecchia. It's surprisingly not so well known outside of Italy. If you're into gardens, history, and architecture, you'll love this day trip idea.

From Naples, you can arrive in Caserta by train in just under an hour. The drive is about 45 minutes.

You have to buy a ticket to enter into the Royal Palace of Caserta, or Reggia di Caserta. I'd suggest planning ahead and buying your ticket online, just in case you arrive on a busy day.

Fun Fact: Caserta was the Allied Force Headquarters during WWII and where the surrender of the German and Italian forces was signed.

In our original plans for the wedding in Casertavecchia (meaning "Old Caserta"), we didn't plan a visit to Caserta or, honestly, even know about it until just a few days before. We were distracted with extra time in Naples and a weekend on Ischia.

But the day after the wedding, we got a wild hair and decided we just wanted to see Caserta. That's when we realized that you need to buy tickets to even get a glimpse and need quite a few hours if you want to tour the palace and the gardens.

So you learn from our mistakes, I'm letting you know about this place now so you can plan accordingly.

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Pompeii & Mount Vesuvius

Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius are other popular day trip options from Naples and another on the list we haven't yet made it to. You can get here directly on the "Circumvesuviana train". The train takes about 30 minutes.

You can go ahead and go with a guide from Naples or meet one at the entrance. Either way, from what I hear, you should definitely hire a guide.

Pompeii is a rare perfectly preserved city from the year 79. The ancient ruins were covered in volcanic ash from an eruption at Mount Vesuvius and lay completely covered until the 1700s. It's considered a "city frozen in time" and certainly worth the visit from a historic standpoint.

From Pompeii you can go to Mount Vesuvius and hike the Gran Cono Trail. The hike is only a few kilometers but considered difficult given the steep incline and uneven ground. Know that you'll need to buy tickets for access.

This and Caserta are both high on our list for our next trip to Naples.

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Enjoy Your Trip to Naples

It's unlike the rest of the country, which is exactly why people either love it or hate it. If you go into your trip to Naples trying to squeeze it into the images you've built up in your head of Italy in general, you'll likely be disappointed.

Instead, embrace the grit, the noise, and the havoc that most corners seem to be in. Ditch the diet and have an extra frittatina while you're at it.

There's nowhere quite like Naples but it's up to you to decide if that's a good thing or not.

Save it for later!