Best Local Food to Try in Modena

Gnocco Fritto

Raf quickly developed a loving relationship with gnocco fritto and asked for them every aperitivo we went to. Some places served up better ones than others but in general, you could tell the recipe was standard.

Gnocco fritto are pieces of dough made with flour, water, and lard and deep fried. They come out like little pillows, perfect for cheese and cold cuts (more on which below!). Don't let the gnocco in the name confuse you with the typical pasta, gnocchi. The rectangular shape is the only thing these 2 have in common.

It's really easy to find gnocco fritto any time of the day in Modena. For breakfast, you'll find them served plain, ready for you to dip into your cappuccino and later in the day, they'll come alongside your spritz with a plate of typical meats. I recommend you try them both in the morning and in the evening and see which version you prefer.

In Bologna, their fried bread is called crescentine instead although it's essentially the same thing.

Another bread you'll see with aperitivo is tigelle. From my experience this flat, round bread is more common in Bologna but still makes an appearance here.

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Erbazzone

I quickly fell in love with erbazzone. So much so that for the week we were in Modena, I ate one every morning for breakfast. Erbazzone was to me what gnocco fritto was to Raf. Both are best served warm.

Erbazzone is a flat, flaky pastry that's filled with spinach and cheese. It comes from Modena and Reggio Emilia and while you might see it in other places in the region, you'll find it in almost every bar/cafe in these 2 cities.

Although it's possible to find it throughout the day and you might even see it on some menus at restaurants, it's most commonly served for breakfast with your morning coffee. Remember, Italians don't usually go big for breakfast and instead stick to a small pastry (in most regions it's a croissant) and a coffee.

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Balsamic Vinegar

If Modena is famous for one thing it's the balsamic vinegar. While I know most people come to Modena simply for a balsamic vinegar tour and tasting and then hit the road, I do recommend you stay longer to enjoy more of the local delicacies and the city itself.

That said, I'm in no way saying to skip the balsamic vinegar. Here, you can try a number of varieties that's nearly impossible to get outside of the city. It's really impressive how much the taste can change based on the barrel used, how long it ages, and the type of grapes.

I won't go into too much detail here on the production as a tour will give you far more insight (and let you sample the different ones along the way). You can choose from two main types of tours: one in the city that usually works as a food tour with a stop to visit a balsamic vinegar producer or one that'll take you directly to the source.

The one you choose should be based on how much you really want to learn and see about the entire process.

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Cured Meats

Say hello to the cured meats of Modena. Some names you might recognize, otherwise might be brand new for you.

Prosciutto

Let's start with the obvious: prosciutto. Prosciutto, or Parma ham, is actually from nearby Parma but is served all over Modena as well. Here you can try a variety of different prosciutto from different ages to crudo (raw) and cotto (cooked).

Mortadella

Next up, mortadella. Mortadella is actually from Bologna but again, given the absolute joy that is mortadella it's no wonder it's crossed city boundaries. Mortadella is actually considered a type of sausage made with cured meat. Personally, it's my favorite of Emilia Romagna's meats.

Cotechino

Culatello is another cured meat that's only produced in a very small area just outside of Parma. You can think of culatello as exclusive prosciutto. Whereas prosciutto comes from the meat on the inner thigh, culatello is made from the bum.

Ciccioli

Last but certainly not least is ciccioli. This slice of meat is the most unique and was one we certainly weren't expecting but were pleasantly surprised by. You apparently can find this cut made into crackling but we most often had it served on meat boards as cured meats.

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Cheese

Mmmmm cheese. I could give up a lot of different foods but cheese would be nearly impossible for me. There are 2 cheeses you'll most commonly see in Modena: Parmigiano Reggiano and squacquerone.

Parmigiano Reggiano

You likely already know Parmigiano Reggiano, or parmesan cheese. Although most commonly thought to come from Parma, you can find this cheese produced from Parma to Bologna, and the towns in between (including Reggio Emilia and Modena).

While in Modena (or any of the towns highlighted above), I highly recommend you taste a few different ages of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese to see just how much it changes throughout it's aging process.

Squacquerone

Next up is squacquerone. This soft, creamy cheese is really light and almost liquidy. Personally, I think it pairs perfectly with mortadella whereas Parmigiano Reggiano is best for prosciutto.

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Pesto Modenese (Modena's Pesto)

Modena's pesto is not quite what you're thinking. For the basil from Genoa on this one. Instead, make room for lard. Pesto Modenese is made from whipped lard, garlic, and rosemary. It's creamy and hearty and perfect to spread over tigelle, topped with shredded parmesan.

Although not something I'd get in the habit of eating, I can't deny that it was delicious.

From all the regions in Italy, I say the Emilia Romagna region eats the heaviest food. And now that I've specifically mentioned lard twice now as a key ingredient, you're probably in agreement.

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(Costine di Maiale) Pork Ribs

Raf and I decided to add pork ribs to this list not because there is one single way they made ribs here but that the 2 times we ate them, they were fantastic.

I'm not that used to seeing ribs on menus in Italy but am also not the biggest meat eater, believe it or not! Raf on the other hand jumped at the chance to try ribs twice, practically drooling through both presentations.

The first bout of ribs we tried was served with a lot of different things as a sort of sampling platter. The rib meat practically melted off the bone and was somehow tender and juicy inside and crispy outside.

The next plate of ribs we tried was offered as a main course. These were braised in lambrusco and were absolutely delicious although very different from the first presentation.

My point here is that if you like ribs and see "costine di maiale" on a menu in Modena, I say try them!

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Desserts

Although Modena seems to put a bigger emphasis on salty food than sweet, there's still always room for dessert in Italy.

Gelato with Balsamic Vinegar

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For a fun twist, visit Gelateria Bloom in Modena city center and try their gelato with balsamic vinegar. I'm not completely convinced this is a local concoction but it's still really good and worth a try.

We tried their two flavors but both agreed the fior di latte (milk) gelato was best with it.

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Torta Barozzi

Although described as a chocolate cake, Americans will realize it's a lot like our brownies. I only saw this in bakeries and sweet shops but am so happy we gave it a try. For someone who hasn't been to the US and eaten an actual brownie in years, it was the perfect way to satisfy my sweet tooth.

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Salame al Cioccolato (Chocolate Salami)

Last time we were in Bologna we tried chocolate salami for dessert simply because of its name. We've learned that in Italy you never quite know which way that name will go.

In this case, it's a roll of chocolate that is sliced like you would salami.

Inside it has chunks of cookies and to me, it's the perfect balance between sweet but not too much. I'd highly recommend ending one of your meals with this.

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Foods from Bologna

Next up, I want to highlight a few dishes that are actually from Bologna but are commonly found in Modena. If you're going to both cities during your trip, I'd try these in Bologna itself but if you're using Modena as your base, give them a try here instead.

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Lasagna

Did you know the original lasagna recipe has green noodles (dyed naturally from the spinach)? Yep, green lasagna! We didn't either until our first trip to the region.

Here they also don't use mozzarella cheese like most of us are accustomed to but instead béchamel sauce and parmigiano reggiano. Like with ragù, the hearty meat sauce is typically a blend of ground beef and pork.

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Tagliatelle al Ragù

This is what the world knows as Bolognese but here it's called ragù. Forget about spaghetti noodles, too, here the wider and flatter tagliatelle noodles rule. Every restaurant has its own recipe but, in general, ragù uses a mix of ground beef and pork, some veggies (like carrots and onions), and sometimes tomato paste, along with plenty of spices.

After eating the original recipe, I can understand why, at least a variation of it, became famous all around the world.

Considering it's Raf’s favorite, I’ve never been able to get a picture before he digs in. You can take that as a really good sign!

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Passatelli

Passatelli are thick noodles made from bread crumbs, eggs, and parmigiano reggiano. Like tortellini, it's typically served in a light broth.

Given the unique way that they make these noodles, the dish is unlike anything I've had before. Raf enjoyed it a bit more than I did and while I certainly didn't dislike it, compared to the other heavy hitters to choose between, I'd go for something else when given the option.

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Gramigna alla Salsiccia

I don't want to offend any Italians reading this but to non-Italians, the noodle is most akin to delicate macaroni noodles. It's served with minced sausage, or salsiccia.

Like most Italian classics, the dish is simple yet packed with flavor. It's easily one of my favorite pasta dishes and one I was eager to eat again as I've never seen it served outside of Emilia Romagna.

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Tortellini en Brodo

Most of us know the stuffed pasta tortellini but did you know traditionally tortellini is eaten in a light broth (brodo) instead of served with a sauce? Traditional tortellini is stuffed with minced mortadella and ricotta cheese.

I'll be honest, the broth didn't do much for me but Raf adored it. To me, the tortellini themselves are so flavorful that I could eat just noodles completely plain and be happy. But, of course, when in Bologna, do as the Bolognese do and try it en brodo.

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Lambrusco

Lambrusco is a sparkling red wine that pairs fantastically with all of the traditional dishes in the region. It's most often served chilled.

Just like all wines, you'll find different varieties here that range from sweet to dry but unless you're a wine aficionado that knows exactly what you're looking for, try out the house one and get ready to be pleased.

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Where to Eat in Modena

Before you get too excited, I'm not going to give you a list of restaurants here. Instead, I want to tell you about the different types of restaurants to help guide your way.

Modena is home to one of the best restaurants in the world, Osteria Francescana. We don't have the funds for a meal like this (nor were we totally interested in it) but I'd be remiss not to mention this incredible award. Just know you'll need to make reservations months in advance to even have a chance to eat here.

Instead, here's what I'd recommend: stroll the city on foot and pick a restaurant where the vibe looks nice and most diners look local. If you're just 1 or 2 people, for lunch you should be fine without a reservation but I'd recommend a reservation for dinner.

We're actually big lunch fans and love taking a full hour away from our computers to break up the work day and for dinner we opted for either an aperitivo with gnocco fritto and cured meats or Italy's favorite fast food, a piadina.

A piadina is a mix between a sandwich and a wrap and can be found around the country. Modena seemed to take this to the next level and had piadina shops all over the city, especially on and near the famed bar street, Dei Galluci. Although for Italians this would be considered fast food, you can expect high quality ingredients and a delicious meal out of it.

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Where to Stay in Modena

After all this food, you'll want somewhere comfortably to rest your head. Although most people come to Modena only for a day trip, I highly recommend you stay for at least one night to enjoy more of the local specialties than just the famed balsamic vinegar.

📍If you don't yet have your hotel or apartment booked, here's what I suggest:

• Budget Stay: Elegant & Beautiful: If you plan to make a few day trips, the location near the train station (yet still in the city center) will be super convenient.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Dei Gallucci Apartment B&B: This is where we stayed in Modena. We brought our dog and cat along for the trip so a comfy pet-friendly spot was mandatory. The balcony gave them extra space and it was located on a quiet alleyway just one block from the busy bar street I'll talk about later. I'd highly recommend this one.
• Luxury Stay: Sant'Eufemia 30: If you're a fan of boutique hotels, especially ones that are a piece of living history, you'll be hard-pressed to find a better hotel than this one for your trip.

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Eat Up in Modena

You're in for a real treat when eating your way through Emilia Romagna and Modena in particular. Although I will have to give my vote for best food to Bologna, Modena is a tough contender.

Traditional cuisine in Italy is often so different from what you're used to out of the country that I highly recommend you try both dishes you think you know and those you've never heard of before.